Spring 2011 Vogues

Since I started picking up Burda mags for a song at the local newsstands every month, I've started to yawn when I see Vogue trot out their rare new collections, knowing that I'm going to be looking at these items for months and months and months. So it is with some anticipated ennui that I cast my eyes over the new offering and have to say, it's more lightweight dresses, dresses, dresses with few of the snazzy separates that used to spell summer. Whatever happened to those amazing Indochine-inspired ensembles from Yves St. Laurent or the safari jackets and dresses from Ralph Lauren or the capri-cum-sarong-with-camisole and overshirt from Calvin Klein for us commoners? (These are all in my vintage box.) Where are some new trouser shapes? Why are we stuck with these dippy, girly dresses from Pamela Rolland, Tracy Reese and who the hell is Vena Cava? I know, up-and-coming talents, but I think they all look much the same, sort of second generation Anna Sui, and again, it's cross- your-heart styling from Donna Karan (which we all did last winter) and draping, which is so last summer. So, I've set aside two of the SS selection, above, for the following reasons: both of them cover the armpits, which in our air-conditioned times, means that we're not shivering from sun to shade, and those of us over 30 can breathe easy about crepey upper arms. Both can come in heat-friendly breathable cotton and or silk crepe-de-chine and don't require nasty poly knit or heavy stretch jersey that work your deo to the max.

The Donna Karan looks pulled together for office or party, depending on the fabric, yet with the bow is a feminine take on the classic shirtwaist dress. The Rebecca Taylor can be a tunic or a dress, and has a lovely fluidity that keeps you cool in the summer while featuring, again, a single draped ruffle down the front. You would wear this more than one season.

I'm just going to assume that younger American women have impeccable arms and shoulders these day to be wearing all these sundresses to work. Otherwise, why don't the designers offer some cover-ups, jackets or shrug/boleros to go with?